January 17, 2006

The Gila National Forest

Another trip this weekend, though not on the bike (she says with a sigh of disappointment). Actually, much of the trip was a trifle disappointing. Not that I'm complaining about a three-day weekend, spent with The Boyfriend, in a national forest, and he drove all of the way. (Though I did buy him a Chai Tea Latte in Silver City so I think I am off the guilt hook on that one.)

To the point, we took off from Phoenix to Silver City, New Mexico, which was about a five hour drive. After we got out of the megalopolis that Phoenix is--man, that takes almost two hours really--we picked up on some astonishing roads. Highway 78 in particular. You drive up this very swine-like environment. That sounds bad but it's truly not. First there are the creamy backs of sleeping piglets rising from the desert. Then, their rougher boar cousins emerge with bristles along their spines. Topped with the exposed tusks of pure rock. The view we left in our wake was picture perfect and, of course, The Boyfriend took a fabulous one.
Silver City itself was the downer, I think. We were expecting this cute little village the likes of which we have seen many times. Not all are Jerome, of course, but the majority of these towns with nearby wilderness or road trips are worth seeing. Silver City, though, seemed to be serviceable--grocery stores, quick eats (lots of greasy spoons and chain stores), and hotels--and drab. We did find the historic downtown later. That section was definitely worth seeing with it's boutiques, used book stores, bed and breakfasts, yoga studios, coffee shops. But it was hidden and tragically small.

The Gila National Forest was picturesque. A very nice drive that made us miss the bike with every curve we hugged, every undulation up and down and side to side. Camping was free (yes, free!) but it got down to 20 degrees. I know, I know. It's January and I should have known. I thought I did know but my nose didn't. The poor scapegoat nose. He is the only part who is forced to remain on the outside of the sleeping bag. You can pull him inside. Your breath will create some heat (good) but also humidity (bad--nothing like a cold sweat in such a situation).
The Cliff Dwellings were my favorite part. We've seen quite a few in the last year at both Tonto National Monument and Mesa Verde. Nothing can rival Mesa Verde, I know. But here, we were actually allowed to walk within the dwelling to an extent that you are usually not supposed to by pain of... hmmm. A stern speech by the grey-haired volunteer guide? No, more like the shame of desecration, culturally, historically. But, dammit, I like to touch things! And they had preserved corn cobs that were used by the ruin's population in the 13th century! Some very nice pictures taken here.
They rest of the valley, again, was desolate. Promising little dots on the map turned out to be towns of trailers with a post office housed in a pre-fab building. Desolate? Sheesh, I am forgetting the oh so scenic and inspiring (note the sarcasm) "open pit" mine. The oldest still in operation in the Southwest! Sorry, I mean, I know I need copper. To turn on my lights, to use all the alloy metals that make my car run, to type, to... hmmmm ok, so I don't know all the uses but I know I need it. But why oh why does the result have to look like this? Do we not have better techniques for mining at this point in the technical evolution of man? Couldn't they at least, call me crazy, take all that extra dirt and make a huge sand castle out of it? Imagine the increased tourism if you'd include a bar, a hotel, etc. It would be like the Ice Bars they create in Nordic lands.
The Boyfriend and I have shared many adventures, many of them adding up to be better than this little jaunt. (See his take on the trip here.) But I think all those adventures may make me a bit picky about this one. Perhaps it was just because it was January. Peak time to visit doesn't begin until the Spring, when the article I was researching will come out. Oops! Did I let my little secret out?

1 Comments:

Blogger Unknown said...

God, that's beautiful country. Count yourself luck you're there to enjoy and have someone to enjoy it with.

10:52 AM  

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